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DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK
The evocatively-named Death Valley Park is the final article in our series of US National Parks. Despite its name and reputation, Death Valley is a region of outstanding beauty with mountains, sand dunes, multi-coloured rock formations, canyons and unique salt features. The desert scenery covers 3.3 million acres, 95% of which is designated as a wilderness (the largest outside of Alaska.)
The Valley, east of the Sierra Nevada range in California is 130 miles long and 12 miles wide. It rises from 283 feet below sea level to a high point of 11000 feet – high enough to have snow in the winter. With temperatures of 130 degrees F in the summer it is certainly the hottest and driest region in North America, yet still supports a diverse range of animals, birds, reptiles, cacti and wild flowers.
Its name probably derives from the first travelers in 1849 who supposedly died there en-route to the gold fields of California.( In fact only one male died) The park contains relics of those times in the shape of metal ore and borax mine workings and other ruins. There are many ghost towns to visit and these “outdoor museums” include Ballarat which produced 15000 tons of gold ore from 1898-1903; Greenwater, built around a copper discovery in 1905, which grew to a population of 2000 and collapsed in 1909 without ever making a profit, and Rhyolite which was called the “Queen City” and at one time boasted a population of 10,000 with a ‘red light” district attracting women from San Francisco.
Ancient foot trails indicate the existence of the Shoshone Indians in earlier times. Several families still live in the Park at Furnace Creek
Despite the harsh desert environment the Valley supports an interesting range of wildlife. A rare group of Desert Big Horn Sheep who inhabit the Sierra Nevada may often be seen; usually at the higher elevations Amphibians include Salamander, Red-Spotted Toad and the Pacific Tree Frog. There are many species of bats including the Mexican Free Tailed and Townsend’s Big Eared Bat. The Dark Hole Pup is an endangered species of fish. There is an abundance of birds including Heron, Stork, Grebe and Hawk with rare visits from Eagles. 20 species of snakes, including rattlesnakes and many lizards live in the Valley.
Given well-spaced rainfall, sun and no drying winds, the desert can produce a spectacular display of wild flowers. There are over 1000 plant species in Death Valley, with peak blooming periods, Mid February – Mid April at the valley floor, April - Early May at 2000-4000 feet and Late April – Early June above 4000 feet. Remember! Picking of wild flowers is prohibited
Although the Mojave Desert is rich with cacti and succulents, they are scarce in Death Valley due to the extremes of heat and salinity of the soil. Cacti do grow from 400 feet ASL to the summits of the surrounding mountains. The most common species are the Cottontop Barrel, Silver Cholla and the Beavertail. As a succulent, Pickleweed is very salt-tolerant and grows in the marshy areas below sea level.
There are literally thousands of hiking possibilities in Death Valley with backcountry areas accessible only by cross country hiking. Day Hikes range in distance from 1 -5 miles. Backcountry Hikes range from 4 to the 26 mile Cottonwood to Marble Canyon Trail which involves a climb of 3000 feet. – narrow canyons, Big Horn Sheep and Wilderness!. You will require a Camping Permit from a Ranger or Visitor Centre.
Biking is only allowed on roads open to automobile traffic, and prohibited on cross county or hiking trails. There are hundreds of miles of dirt and paved roads available with official trails from 2 to 49 miles in length. Biking in canyons should be avoided if there are storms expected.
This is a desert environment and simple precautions are essential. If you travel alone, advise someone of your plans and route. In canyons be aware of flash floods. Do not enter abandoned mines without a guide. Ensure each person has at least 1 gallon (5 litres) of water per day and drink it!! Wear suitable clothing, footwear, a hat and use sunscreen. If your vehicle breaks down, stay with it.
Despite its foreboding history, heat and other problems, Death Valley National Park is a unique place for a very adventurous holiday in a true desert environment with magnificent scenery, flora and fauna. Whether you are a hiker, biker, photographer, history buff or a tourist this is something special. Why not head for Death Valley this Spring?
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